Magnestand - Where Maggies Live And Breathe


This page is intended as a guide to explaining all the steps to get your maggies modded.

In short, you first acquire a work date by joining my work queue, as your date approaches I contact you about shipping and your frame design and wood choices, you ship the speaker and provide a $300 deposit, the work is completed and the speaker tested if need be, the speaker is packed for it's return trip and the balance paid. All of this is followed by years of unbridled happiness on your part.

If you are not sure which model to buy and mod, then check this page out first.

Please note this disclaimer

I will no longer mod any 2 series with a ribbon, any 3 series maggie, any 20 series maggie or any tympani series because they cannot be safely shipped after modding. I will also not mod any of the .7 series because they can't be fixed. They are a waste of your money and my time, so I strongly advise you not to buy any of these, certainly not if the intent is to mod them or get "the best" sound you can. Their problems are endemic and cannot be fixed.

I would also prefer to not mod pre QR tweeter models (Basically 1995 on back) In almost every case there are too many age related issues to fix and worry about before we even start. (whether you think they have issues or not) The QR tweeter also results in much better upper mids and top end, something none of these older models has. Therefore, please mod something newer, you'll be glad you did and it will maximize your money spent as well as your enjoyment.

What do I recommend then? Either good used or new MMG's, or used but good 1.6's or 12's or 2.7's. These are the best candidates. No other models are really needed, especially given what these new Jupiter caps can do.


1 - Work Queue

If you are interested in having me do work on your maggies you must first email me to secure a place in my work queue. Why do I have a work queue? First, the mod has proven to be extremely popular and desireable because it is everything I say it is. Second, I am one man and I have no desire to expand. To me this is art and you should get the artist when you pay for art, not his apprentice. Because of these things it takes time for me to get to everyone so the queue provides order. It is free to join it and free to leave it, I only ask you join if genuinely interested. To join requires an email stating your intent along with your name, address, phone and model to be modded. No money is required at this time.

When I am working it's essentially a 7 day a week job, so I have two work "seasons" per year. The first "spring" session starts in late March or thereabouts (depends how bad wnter was and if it wants to quit) and runs to June and the "fall" session starts after Labor Day and usually runs into November. (I spend the remaining time each year prostrate on a chaise having damp linens applied to my forehead...) Wait time is not predictable. I know audiophiles need instant gratification when they get the itch but all I can say is be patient. It is clear how much this mod is valued and I will make the time you spent waiting worth it when I get to you. Sometimes I have instant openings and you may be told I can go now, but in most cases expect a 3-4 month wait with a maximum of about 6.

Be aware that opt outs do happen and even if you were told I can't do you for 6 months events may change and you could suddenly find yourself getting done the following week instead. This happens due to the time involved, as life interrupts and peoples schedules alter and they ask me to move them about which constantly creates openings. So essentially if I tell you 6 months that is the longest it will take, and once on the list, like an astronaut, you may find yourself called unexpectedly at any moment. (If you can't take such an opening that is fine, you stay where scheduled and I'll drop to the next person in line) If you have questions feel free to write any time.

2 - Costs

Costs. I have finally simplified pricing by eliminating parts options. If you are getting this mod, you will get the best parts, and by best I mean best sounding, not most expensive. Nobody ever opted for the cheaper alternatives anyway so the pointlessness of offering it became clear. What goes in has proven time and again to yield the absolute best result, and includes Jupiter and Obbligato caps, Alpha Core inductors and Duelund resistors

Therefore, the only cost beyond what is listed below is your wood choice, and design elements and shipping. In return you get a completely reborn speaker that will go together in 15 minutes upon arrival, and which will outperform practically every other speaker made, regardless of price.

Base Cost

Note again that these costs do not include the cost of the wood chosen, special build requests or the return shipping charges. These costs are separate because they vary with every job.

3 - Choose a Wood Species

First off, it must be remembered that like any commodity wood has "seasons" and there are times certain species cannot be obtained once that years stocks run out. So don't assume anything, please inquire about specific species. Also, wood is a commodity like gas and the price of it can fluctuate a lot. For that reason I have given up listing prices per species because the prices is always different every time I go... up and down. Note also this cost is for real, solid wood. No veneer or ply is used anywhere in the build. The frames and XO's are entirely solid hardwoods.

As far as samples go I tried that and it simply doesn't work. One of the advantages of having someone like me hand select boards from a pile in a lumberyard for every specific part is you get the most unusual, sublime and attractive wood I can find. No wood looks alike to begin with and what I get is really one of a kind stuff. No sample pack can exemplify that. I'll work with you when the time comes to give you the best visualization I can beforehand.

I stopped taking pics as well because every model is so different you can't ask for "that one" because the wood I choose is so unique it likely can't be duplicated. I will discuss with you what you like and want, will make suggestions and we'll get it sorted. It especially helps if you can trust me to go on my own if I come across something so unexpected and nice it would be foolish to pass it up.

The table below is now categorized for quality, not type. Low represents the cheapest species, and or the ones least figured of pricier woods (which are sometimes sold off at lower prices) It includes things like Ash, Oak, and lower grades of Walnut Maple and Cherry. Medium includes better examples of Walnut, Cherry and Maple as well as figured less common species such as Sassafras, QS Sycamore or Elm. It can also include some of the lower priced tropicals like Canarywood. High is always the best and most highly figured woods, and most tropicals. Bear in mind while Oak is listed as "low", I can sometimes get it QS and very figured. It will also be priced accordingly, just as I can sometimes get tropicals for less when they are somewhat bland. My advice is we only do this once. Spend the extra to get something you'll cherish forever. For something you'll look at every day for the rest of your life, an extra 100 bucks or so is worth it.

Wood Quality
MG-1 series
MG-2 series
Low $200-250 $235-285 $250-300 $290-340
Medium $260-320 $285-345 $300-365 $340-400
High $325-375 $350-400 $375-450 $425-500

I will not use some woods for sensitivity reasons such as Mahogany and Padauk. If you ask for a species and it's one I won't use I'll let you know. I'd like to live to see my grandkids.

4 - Choosing a Style

The below image represents the more common styles used. Mouse over the image to see how each style looks with lattice added. There is no "set" style, you can add or delete any option you like. If you'd like to pursue an unusual option that is fine, just contact me. I have done frames in a Southwest motif and Mission style for example.

Standard is a plain frame. I recommend and only do the butt joined corners anymore because the sharp angles of the mitered ones can put the grain in opposition which has shown a tendency of the corners to open up in time as the wood shrinks. (they open in winter when the shrink rate is greatest, and tend to reclose in summer) Butt joints may suffer a slight unevenness at the top at some times in the year but should never get crack openings.

Pinning Pegs are either flush round pins of contrasting color added ($35) or protruding, square, hand cut pins ($75).

Edge Trim can either be narrow or wide. It's base cost is $50 plus whatever the contrasting wood chosen costs and it also must be a square butt frame.

Lattice adds stringers, of which one style only is shown. Price is $50 for the first "string" and $20 for each additional one. The one shown above would be $90 (main string plus an extra one on top and bottom). If you are concerned lattice would effect the sound negatively it does not, and in fact it may bring positive attributes in refraction.

5 - Payment

How it works. I'll email you 1-2 weeks before you are scheduled for the work about how and when you should ship your speaker to me. A $300 parts deposit is due at this time which can be a check or paypal. Work is usually completed in 7-10 days. Unusual finishes or other delays may lengthen this time and you will be informed of this, but quality is job #1 and some times things take time. Final payment plus shipping fees are due upon completion and can be made in the form of check or paypal.

A note about paypal I am happy to offer this service as a means to expedite your transaction. However my margins are very slim, and losing 3% of what I charge is more than I can bear. I do not add the fee to the $300 deposit however if you opt to use paypal to pay the final bill an extra 3% will be added on to your total after shipping costs are factored in. In other words all costs listed above are the "cash price".

A Word About DIY, Kits and XO boxes

I no longer offer kits. It took me as long to make them for half the money. I also prefer not to make crossover boxes. That is because the boxes are not plug and play and will require a bit of work from you including opening up and turning your drivers, rewiring and soldering new leads to them etc... If you can do that you can build the XO yourself and if you can't the box will do you no good. Remember, this is not a tweak I'm offering, we are changing the speaker so it plays at it's utmost limit of potential and that requires fundamental changes. If you wish to tackle DIY ask me for the schematic for your model and I will provide it. While I am happy to answer questions or to clarify issues (this is why I ask people get the info from me and not pass it around, if you have a question I want you asking me so it gets answered correctly) remember that DIY is DIY. If the info is a total mystery to you when you get it, you're not ready and I cannot walk you thru the entire process.

The DIY info page can be reached here.

6 - Miscellaneous

Base Spikes - I use Dayton spikes, which are precision machined from solid brass and then plated with a durable black chrome finish. The tips are adjustable for uneven surfaces and the point can be used alone when on carpet but they also come with padded cups to use on hardwood floors to prevent scratching. My advice is to play with location with the points off if you are worried about damaging your floor, and once the optimal spot is found you can install the points and protective cups.

Binding Posts - I use the BP 1.5 by Vampire which is a solid brass post coated in copper, silver and gold. They equal or beat anything in their price range sound wise and the gold plating insures a lifetime of playback purity. They can also accept every type of termination from the largest spades to bananas to bare wire.

XO Box Isolation - The only "tweak" needed with this mod is in regards to decoupling the crossover box from the plinth. To do that and completely remove the box from the vibrations of the plinth it sits upon I include a set of Herbies Iso-Dots which work wonderfully. They are included with the cost of the stands.