- NOTE For a variety of reasons, we no longer offer parts or speakers in kit form. So your two options are have us do it or do it yourself. We will soon update this page with a link to a DIY page that has all the info and XO specs needed for those wishing to do the work themselves. To start the process of having the work done, email me to secure a place in my work queue. Due to demand beyond my expectations this list has gotten rediculously long. All I can say is be patient, and that I will make it worth your while when the time comes. The list is currently full for all of 2008, and I am now taking names for January 2009. If you simply have questions feel free to write any time. If you do not see your speaker listed below it does not mean we cannot do it, it may just mean we have not yet done it. If it does not have a true ribbon tweeter we can probably mod it, so please write us with an inquiry. In fact, one of the benefits is we give discounts to people who allow us to perform the mod to new models for the first time. How it works. I'll email you 1-2 weeks before you are due to schedule when you should ship your speaker to me. A $300 parts deposit is due upon arrival of the speakers. (I try to have them arrive on the thursday or friday before I begin) Work starts on the following monday and they should ship back the monday after that at the soonest, or within a few days at worst. Unusual finishes or other delays may lengthen this time. Payment plus shipping plus any paypal fees are due upon completion. A note about paypal I am happy to offer this service as a means to expedite your transaction. However my margins are very slim, and losing 3% of what I charge is more than I can bear. I will supply a final bill sooner if you wish to mail payment (personal check or money order) so it is here by the time the speakers are done. However if you opt to use paypal an extra 3% will be added on to your total after shipping costs are factored in. The only exception is the $300 deposit. I'll take this by paypal with no added fee. Note that none of the prices below include shipping. PRICE LIST For Magnestand Mod EFFECTIVE for those joining work queue after January 01 2008 Item SMGa MMG MG-12 MG-.5/.6 MG-1.6 1:Magnestand Mod $1,450 $1,495 $1,545 $1,575 $1,595 WOOD SPECIES The stock wood for frame construction is red oak. (sometimes white oak, depending on conditions) I choose the boards based on flatness and suitablility, and for the basic cost do not factor in grain. They can be finished naturally or stained the color of your choice at no charge, except for some labour and time intensive colors. If you would like yours made with quartersawn oak or in an entirely different species it can easily be arranged with additional costs depending on the type chosen. I won't work with some tropical woods due to toxicity reasons, but there is a lot to choose from otherwise. You'll also find my prices for solid lumber construction compare to those just using the same wood in veneer. The chart below will give a rough idea of some examples and what each adds, but please note that it is just a guide. Wood is a commodity like lobsters or gasoline, and it's price varies day to day just like those items. Even I cannot get "firm" prices from lumberyards. And by all means write me about species you don't see listed. (I am working to find cherry and walnut at more reasonable costs but both get more expensive all the time) I will provide a samples page when I am able, but for now you can do a google image search to view the various wood types. Wood SMGa MMG MG-12 MG-1.6 Quartersawn Oak $95 $85 $105 $125 Canarywood $160 $150 $170 $190 Cherry $210 $200 $235 $270 Lacewood $215 $205 $240 $275 Lyptus $125 $115 $130 $145 Ambrosia Maple $145 $140 $155 $170 Sapele $160 $150 $170 $190 Walnut $210 $200 $235 $270 Zebrawood $435 $420 $450 $490 Woods I will currently not use for sensitivity reasons are - Mahogany, Makore and Padauk. So please don't even ask. PARTS USED Crossover Boxes - It is getting around that I do special things to the XO boxes. This is true. There is no knowing how fancy or what wood I'll use for yours, and yours will be like no one elses. This is the only real chance I have to personalize each model and I do not charge extra for this. (It's my gift to you) However, I will not "take orders" on what I am to do in this regard. If you have in mind a certain style or wood I will of course oblige, (say boxes made from zebrawood) but this will cost extra depending on the species you ask for. This pic below is a good example. The boxes are alder which I don't charge more for, but the customer wanted zebrawood and cocobolo tops, which I added at a slight extra charge. Plinth Spikes - I use Dayton spikes, which are precision machined from solid brass and then plated with a durable black chrome finish. They are hefty, attractive and even have tips which can be raised for levelling. Also included are pads and floor discs for hardwood applications. Wire - Crossover boxes and Maggie insides are wired with DH Labs 14ga. teflon insulated, silver-plated, stranded, high purity copper wire. I find this wire yields the best results of quickness, naturalness and musicality. Binding Posts - We now solely use the BP 1.5 post made by Vampire Wire. It is milled from solid brass and then coated in copper, silver and then gold. They are sonically the equal or better of anything we've heard, and their gold plating insures a lifetime of pure sonic playback. Caps & Inductors - If my frame is the backbone of the maggies, then this is their new heart. I spent much time and effort coming up with what I consider to be the ideal arrangement. My goal was to maintain harmony and musicality while adding thunderously deep lows and beautiful articulated highs with no etch or glare common to many upgraded crossovers using "boutique" caps. In this goal I was successful as there is just enough "heat" to give transients a palpable air of realism, without tint, coloration or listening fatigue. It's as close to real as you're likely to get, at even 5 times the price, and the parts were chosen upon the sonic results they produce together, not their price. The detailed info will be available on the DIY page when completed. Hardware - Maybe not a glamorous aspect, but there are a lot of little bits that go into making this design work, and some of them like the brass threaded inserts don't come cheap. We use the best stuff we can to insure a lifetime of problem free use. Tweaks - Only one "tweak" is needed, and that is in regards to decoupling the crossover box from the plinth. To completely remove the box from the vibrations of the plinths I include a set of Herbies Iso-Dots which work wonderfully. They are included with the costs of the stands and boxes.